1900-1909 Designers

Paul Poiret

- The first designer

  Paul Poiret born 8th April 1879 in time of the world of physical pleasures. From early age Paul Poiret knew that he born to be an artist - Anyone without enough discipline and too much imagination for a normal days work must be a born artist. 

 His father sent him to famous umbrella-market to work as an errand boy. His father sent him there with a hope that he might learn the serious side of life. From the umbrella-market Paul Poiret collected the scraps of silk left from the cutting of umbrella patterns and he designed extravagant couture creations for the 15 inch wooden doll given by his sisters. By his very big talent for drawing  he get the position as an assistant to the successful couturier Jacques Doucet. Poiret learnt there not only the dressmaker's craft but also  how to pay court effectively to the stars of the stage.  In 1901 Poiret was employed by Worth but Jean-Philippe and Gaston Worth didn't give him a chance.

In 1903 Poiret's mother helped him to open his own first fashion salon by given him 50.000 francs. Rejane became his first client... Three years later Paul Poiret was recognized in the street, restaurants and whole of Paris thronged to his parties.

Paul Poiret celebrated and worked with Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, Erte (Romain de Tertoff), Mariano Fortuny, Maurice de Vlamnick, Andre Derian, Raoul Dufy and felt himself one of them.

Until 1930 Poiret fame has expired and other fixed stars shone in the fashion firmament ...
First of Coco Chanel, who knew from her own experience what was wrong with women's fashion. Paul Poiret perhaps rightly argued that 'He went to war with the corset.' He Considered the devision of the female body into two - a heavy bosom at the front and a jutting derriere at the back. Inspired by Art Nouveau and 18th-century Directoire style. Poiret designed simple, narrow robe with a long skirt that began below the bust and fell sheathlike to the floor in a straight line. With this  he created a design that made him immortal. He christened the dress La Vague, because it swirled around the body like a gentle wave.
The new Poiret woman looked outrageously, modest and young compared with the laced beauties of the Belle Epoque.

     

 

Mariano Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo

Born 11th May 1871, Spain

Died  3rd May 1949, Italy

 Mariano Fortuny was a Spanish modernist painter, photographer and  designer of fabrics and fashion. He came from a family of artists. His father Marià Fortuny was a prominent Spanish painter... And his mother Cecilia came from well known family of artists named Madrazo - she was a daughter of Federica Madrazo and sister of Raimunda Madrazo.

 Mariano Fortuny created only dress to become immortal.

Delphos evening dress with pleated satin that fits into the smallest box is worn to this day by a very discriminating women who assume that they have one of the rare originals at auction.

Fortuny's 1907 design will never go out of fashion because it has never been in fashion... It was work of art - the dress that revealed nothing and hid nothing. Like an ancient Greek chiton tunic, it hung straight from the shoulder to the floor without any shape-enhancing seams, pads or drapes. This dress was for woman who did not need a corset which was very comfortable and gave a freedom of movement which they had been craving.  

 

Jeanne Lanvin 

 Jeanne-Marie Lanvin 

Born1st January 1867, Paris 

Died 6 July 1946, Paris

Jeanne Lanvin was a French fashion designer and the founder of the Lanvin fashion house.

Jeanne Lanvin was 30 year old when she had her first child, and that wast the beginning of her couture career. The eldest 13 years old daughter began a messenger girl, a seamstress and then a milliner. She was only 18 years old when she decided her own to be a milliner. Long time working in solitary made her taciturn. In 1895 Jeanne Lanvin married the Italian aristocrat Emilio di Pietro but after eight years later when their daughter Marguetire was 6 years old they divorced. Lanvin designed delicate and colourful dresses out of love for her very talented daughter - Ririte Lanvin was pretty and musically gifted daughter. These dresses were different to usual children's clothes of that time... In this way she developed the first collection for her couture house.
Jeanne Lanvin started to create men's fashion from 1926, which made Lanvin the first house to dress whole family.

Dresses by Jeanne Lanvin, one of the most influential couturiers of the 1920s and 1930s, are a highlight of the sale Photograph: Archives Lanvin

"Lanvin" by Dean L. Merceron is a spellbinding story of Jeanne Lanvin, the creator of "The House of Lanvin", with breathtaking images of original fashion illustrations and photos of the intricate embroidered and beaded fabrics for which she was known.

 

  

Jeanne Paquin

Jeanne Paquin (1869–1936) was a leading French fashion designer, known for her resolutely modern and innovative designs.
Jeanne Paquin introduced Empire-line dresses in 1906 - One year before Poiret made his name with this design... She was also a year ahead of him with a kimono coat. Jeanne Paquin was the first woman in 1900 which was chosen of fashion section of the World Fair. She was also the first female who was worthy the cross of the Legion of Honor in 1913. Paquin was also the first to set up branches in London, New York, Madrid and Buenos Aires. Her idea was that at the glamorous opera premieres and the exciting race meetings the models will parading in her latest creations. She organized the first true fashion show in London in 1914. That was a musical show which took place in the Palace Theatre. The designs she showed were called tango dresses and they were no less sensational than dance.

 
Jeanne Paquin Gown, 1914